I decided to create I HATE FC KERBECK.com after I had a very bad experience dealing with the used car dealer FC KERBECK & SONS in Palmyra NJ. After dealing with those ruthless people, I decided to create a website explaining what happened to me and to let other people know not to buy cars from FC KERBECK & SONS. The website also provides tips on how to buy a used car, top dealer scams & tricks, how to negotiate with a tough seller, and more.
Don’t fall victim to their advertisements. These advertisements are used to draw you to their dealership. Once you show up to the dealership, they will tell you that the advertised car is not available or it comes with ’strings attached’. And since they have you at the dealership, they will show you a car this is similar to the one in the ad. However, this car costs way more. So in a nutshell, if you see a great deal advertised by FC KERBECK, don’t believe it because it’s too good to be true.
Okay, so you are probably wondering, how bad can FC KERBECK be? Well here are some of the reasons why we hate FC KERBECK:
I am sure you’ve seen the advertisements for FC KERBECK’s Car-BBQ special. Before you go running there to buy your first used car, please use this checklist to evaluate any used car you are considering buying from FC KERBECK. Well actually…. you shouldn’t even be buying a car from FC KERBECK, but if you’re stubborn, then following this checklist, prepared by Identifix, assures you will cover all the bases when checking out their vehicles.
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Body |
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Are seams where doors and fenders meet even and straight? |
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Are seams where the hood and trunk meet the fenders even and straight? |
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Does a magnet cling to all steel body panels? (Be sure to test fenders, the lower corners of doors, and rocker panels—the areas below doors. If a magnet doesn’t cling, suspect body filler was used to repair rust or accident damage.) |
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Are all body panels the same color? |
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Has the car been recently repainted? (Look for signs of spray paint on moldings; also check the edges of the doors, hood, and trunk to be sure they are all the same color. Fresh paint may cover rust that will continue to progress.) |
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Tires |
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Do all tires have the same amount of tread? |
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Are all tires the same size? (Check tire size markings on tire sidewalls.) |
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Are all tires the same brand? |
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Is there a spare tire, jack, and lug wrench? If the vehicle has locking hubcaps, is there a key for removing them? |
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Is the spare tire inflated (Press hard against the side with your thumb; the tire should be firm.) |
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Suspension |
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Does the vehicle sit level? |
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Bounce each corner of the vehicle. Do all corners respond the same? (Corners should only bounce once or twice before stopping.) |
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Do you hear a creaking noise when bouncing the vehicle’s corners? |
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Frame |
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Examine inside trunk, wheel wells, and under hood. Do you see areas that look like they have been crumpled and straightened? |
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Look underneath each side of the vehicle for a row of holes in the frame just inside the vehicle’s outer edge. Do holes appear scratched or recently cleaned? (If so, suspect the frame has been straightened after a crash.) |
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Gas Cap and Filler Neck |
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Is there a gas cap? Does it fit correctly? (If the cap locks, is there a key?) |
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Remove the gas cap and check inside the filler neck. Is there a fuel-nozzle restrictor to prevent adding leaded fuel? (Most states require them.) |
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Interior |
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Is upholstery in good condition? (Look for tears, stains, and burns.) |
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Are the dashboard and headliner in good condition? |
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Do seats adjust easily? |
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Are any window cranks, door locks, handles, dash controls or similar items missing? |
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Do all interior lights and dash bulbs work? |
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Does carpet condition match the age of the vehicle? |
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Does carpeting smell of mildew or stale water, suggesting moisture underneath (or worse, flood damage)? |
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Check under the dash at the top of the carpet. Are there stains suggesting heater core or air conditioner leakage? |
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Accessories |
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Do all accessories, such as the heater, air conditioner, audio system, and alarm system, operate fully? Test all functions of each. |
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Engine Compartment |
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Are there signs of oil or fluid leaks? |
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Run the engine at full operating temperature. Are there abnormal smells that might be due to leaking fluids on hot engine parts? |
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Are there unusual noises, such as clattering or metallic sounds, or sharp hissing, in the engine compartment when the engine is running? (Normal sound is smooth whirring of belts and fan.) |
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Does anything appear to be missing? (Look for shiny or clean areas where parts may have been removed.) |
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Under the Vehicle |
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Are there fluid leaks on the underside of the engine and transmission, at axle ends, at brake line connections, or on the ground beneath the vehicle? Green fluid is usually antifreeze; reddish fluid is usually power steering or transmission fluid; dark brown or black fluid is usually oil or brake fluid. |
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Are any parts loose, with the exception of exhaust parts slung from flexible rubber “donuts”? |
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Does anything appear missing, such as bolts, clamps, brackets or cables? |
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Are exhaust system parts rusty? |
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Are there marks from scrapes, indicating the car has bottomed out on rocks or pavement? |
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Examine exhaust when the car is operating at normal temperature. Do you see white or blue smoke? (Both can indicate an engine problem, especially if the smoke burns your eyes. A small amount of steam is normal, especially in cold weather.) |
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| Performance | |
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Engine |
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Does the engine start easily? |
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Does the engine stall at any time? |
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Does the engine idle smoothly? |
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Does the idle speed seem too slow or fast? |
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Does the engine hesitate or stumble on acceleration? |
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Does the engine run smoothly during operation? |
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Does the engine seem to lack power? |
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If the vehicle has cruise control, do all features work correctly? |
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Do engine or other system warning lights appear? |
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Does the engine diesel (continue running) when shut off? |
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Transmission and Clutch |
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Is automatic shifting smooth? |
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On a manual-shift vehicle, is take-off smooth, without grabbing or jerking? |
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On a manual-shift vehicle, accelerate hard in a higher gear (third or fourth) or while going uphill. If engine rpms rise without a corresponding increase in vehicle speed, the clutch could be slipping. It may need to be adjusted or replaced. |
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On a manual-shift vehicle, try shifting to a lower gear when going slowly. Does the transmission shift easily, without grinding? |
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4-Wheel Drive |
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Engage 4-wheel drive only on soft surfaces unless the owner’s manual specifically says the feature can be used on hard-surfaced roads. On a suitable surface, test-drive the vehicle in forward and reverse with 4-wheel drive engaged. Does the vehicle shift smoothly in both directions? |
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Turn tight corners to the right and left. Are there clunking sounds or other noises? |
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Do the wheels bind or pull, whether turning or going straight? |
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Brakes |
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Apply the brakes several times at different speeds. Also try a sudden stop. Does the vehicle pull to one side when brakes are applied? |
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Do brakes stop the vehicle adequately? |
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If the vehicle has antilock brakes (ABS), try stopping suddenly. Do wheels lock? (A pulsing brake pedal is normal.) |
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Does the parking brake hold firmly and release completely? |
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Steering |
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Does the vehicle pull to one side during normal operation? |
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Is steering difficult at any speed? |
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Turn sharply in both directions. Do you hear clunking or other noises, or feel rubbing or binding? |
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Does the vehicle shake or vibrate while moving? (Take the vehicle up to freeway speed for this test.) |
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Is the steering wheel centered when the vehicle is traveling straight ahead? |
I am sure you’ve seen the TV and newspaper advertisements about 50% off vehicles from FC KERBECK. Well don’t go rushing over to FC KERBECK to get your next car at half price. What you need to do first is read the FINE PRINT.
First, the cars that FC KERBECK advertise are USED - typically they are previously leased cars. So first of all, a USED car is always worth LESS than the Original MSRP. If you look at the ad, it shows the 50% reduction against the ORIGINAL MSRP cost. Remember, these cars are used so the actual value of that car is way less then the Original MSRP.
“The ‘law’ of depreciation says that once you purchase your car it will lose 10% of its value when you drive it off the lot. After a year it will lower in value due to reports of how long the parts will last, how well the body holds together, and how much maintenance it needs. It will then lessen in value by almost half in 5 years, and again in 10 years.”
Now, let’s look at an example of the 2008 Cadillac DTS in the ad:
The ad shows that the ORIGINAL MSRP is $46,990. However, since the car is used, the actual value of the car is way less. Let’s just use 15% as the reduced value of the car since the car is more than 1 year old:
ORIGINAL MSRP = $46,990
REDUCED VALUE = - 7,048 (=46,990 x 15%)
ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE $39,942
If you took the 50% off of this ESTIMATED RETAIL PRICE, the cost of the car would be $19,971. However, FC KERBECK is saying that it’s $22,900. So they are OVERSTATING the price by $2,929.
Next, you see that ( * ) next to the price? Well this relates to the fine print that most people don’t bother reading. But you should definitely read it! In FC KERBECK’s ad, it states that in order to buy the 2008 Cadillac DTS at “HALF PRICE”, you will have to finance it over 84 months with an 7.25% APR Financing Rate. Not only that, you will need a credit score of 725 or better. Do you know what your credit score is? Well according to Experian (one of the three major credit bureaus) the average credit score for Americans is 692. So if you fall in that average, it looks like you’re not getting the car.
Back to the 7.25% APR. In order to get that Cadillac DTS for “HALF PRICE” you will have to finance the car over 84 months at a rate of 7.25%. What does this mean? In a nut shell, that advertised 50% price of $22,900 is actually going to cost you $29,258 once you factor in interest.
So to recap…. based on our calculation, we calculated that the ESTIMATED RETAIL COST of the car after the 50% reduction should be $19,971. FC KERBECK says that it will cost you $29,258. That certainly doesn’t sound like a deal to me.
Did you have a bad experience with FC KERBECK? If so, we want to hear about it. Send your comments, feedback, reviews, or stories to: ihatefckerbeck@yahoo.com
The following are several comments / reviews that people have written on the internet about FC KERBECK
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CRUDE, IGNORANT, PUSHY PEOPLE
Kerbeck has to be the absolute biggest thief in the business………..They also were not happy to hear that I was going to pay cash. I think they live for the (Bad, No Credit) people, so they can whack them with the 19% rate. Crude, Ignorant, Pushy People.
Comment taken from: Domelights.com - The Voice of Good Guys
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I WALKED OUT
I bought two vehicles from kerbeck. The last time I went in there the guy wanted to give me $2500 for my trade and I told him I was offered double that. He told me that It was a GM product and that was all it was worth. I walked out. I do not need to be played with like that…
Comment taken from: Domelights.com - The Voice of Good Guys
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LOCAL HACKJOB DEALER
(talking about Cadillac)… FC Kerbeck, a local hackjob dealer in New Jersey, has been advertising 2008 STSs and DTSs for half off. Off-course those vehicles really don’t exist, and if they ever did they were some sort of beat-up off lease example. While this might generate showroom traffic in the short-term, it has the long-term effect of cheapening the brand and destroy consumer confidence in the company and dealership.
Comment taken from: http://forums.vwvortex.com
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FORMER EMPLOYEE TALKS
I worked for Kerbeck Cadillac in Palmyra for a few years and their motto was…. “Do not let them leave the lot without buying a car”
Review taken from: Domelights.com - The Voice of Good Guys
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BREAKDOWN NIGHTMARE II
To read Breakdown Nightmare l click on the link below:
Ok so after 4 weeks of the car being at the dealer i finally get the phone call that she’s done. The top end of the engine completely rebuilt. So i call about 45 minutes before I get there so they know im coming, hoping they will have my car ready for me. Well i get there and have to wait about 30 minutes before they bring me my car. Ok great finally its here. Well i get in and start to drive home and notice a big crack in the dash by the defrost vent area. So i call and they tell me to come back. I get back and he says that he didnt do it because he only worked on the engine. So i say fine whatever ill suck it up and buy it myself. Ok im on the road again, about a mile away when i hear a god awful banging noise from my engine, then “service engine soon” message. Well i get out and look under my car and see a ratchet fall from the engine on to the street. Well i call again and they tell me to bring it on back. Well whatever happened in there messed something up and they took it back for another hour to fix. He now said he would order the dash part and install for me for the inconvenience.
Ok that all was yesterday… so today i had some keys cut and tried to program them. Im getting a service electrical system and service charging system messages on the DIC. I call up and he tells me when he puts the new dash on next week he’ll check it out….. god awful car nightmare. I want out, im thinking about getting a lawyer and just trying to get out of this mess of a deal.
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BREAKDOWN NIGHTMARE I
Ok so my 03 cts (39000 miles) broke down three weeks after i bought it and the dealer said they wont help me. I call a local shop who come and pick the car up. Say its a camshaft sensor and replace it. When they start the car it cranks over… backfires… then stalls out. Now it wont start anymore.
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TYPICAL “PRICE PER MONTH” DEALER
Typical “price per month” only dealer who doesn’t share the real numbers until you sign. I told the salesman I have done work in Charlie Kerbeck’s personal home, so I didn’t think I had to pick the deal apart- well, that got me a new lease with a cap reduction cost of 3% off of MSRP. Shame on me for “trusting” a car dealer. BEWARE!
In June 2008, I purchased a used Cadillac from FC Kerbeck. I drove it off the lot that night, despite the fact that a punch list of items needed to be done to the car: A weather strip above the windshield needed to be replaced, the dash needed to be tightened, and the car needed to be detailed. I returned the car 3 days later to have these items finished. They said it would be ready in 1-2 days. However, it took much longer than that. They ended up keeping my car for 5 days and they never called me once to notify me that the car was ready to be picked up. I actually went to the dealer on the 4th day in hopes that the car would be finished. When I got there, no one knew where my car was or had any idea of the status of the car. They told me to stop back the next day. I said I am not stopping back until you call me to notify me that my car is finished. I left my phone number with the salesman to call me to notify me when the car was done. I never received a phone call the next day. By this time it was the Thursday before Fourth of July weekend and I needed the car to go down to the shore. I stop into the dealership once last time and my car was actually there. BUT…. the car had never been detailed (which they agreed to do). After realizing that the car was not detailed, I told Ed Mauer (salesman) that I no longer wanted the car and requested my money back, since they offer a money back guarantee. Ed said that I had the car for over the limit allowed for the money back guarantee. I argued that I only had the car for less than 3 days, and the dealer had the car for an additional 5 days in order to complete the items on the punch list. So the fact that they kept my car over the 5 day limit, screwed me when I wanted to return the car.
So…
It’s been 4 weeks since I originally bought the car and I am going to sell it already because of how upset I was during the first week of owning the car. If this is how they treat their customers, I don’t even want to imagine how bad they would treat me over the next 5 years of my lease. I am probably going to lose about $5k as a result of this experience, but I’d rather lose that much money than to have to deal with this RUTHLESS Dealership.
I strongly recommend that NO ONE… I MEAN NO ONE… ever purchase a car from FC Kerbeck. You’re better off going to another dealership and pay a little more than to buy a car from FC Kerbeck. I guarantee that you will have a better experience with a different dealership.
P.S: The other reason why I hate FC Kerbeck is because they treat you like a NUMBER. You are not a customer to them, you are a NUMBER. They only care about making their daily, weekly, monthly sales quota. They will try every trick up their sleeve to sell you a car. And after they sell you a car and you drive away, they wont remember your name (they may remember your face) but I guarantee after 2 weeks, they will forget who the hell you are.
Update 8/13/08
After posting several negative reviews about FC Kerbeck on the internet, I get a call from FC Kerbeck. It is from a guy named Joe. He leaves me a message “So I saw you had a posting on DealerRater.com and I’m calling to try to understand what went wrong and try to make you happy.” I called Joe back and told him what happened to me. I told him that this experience has been so bad, that I do not even want to drive the car anymore. He asked me “Is there anyway we can make you happy?”. I responded “YES, you can take back this car. I am not even asking for a full refund. I’ll take the gross value of the car less my trade-in of $4,000.”. He said he would call me back with an offer….
It’s now September 1, 2008 and I haven’t received a call back from FC Kerbeck even after I made several attempts to get in touch with them. So, I guess my prediction was right… after 2 weeks, they will forget who the hell you are.
Did you have a bad experience with FC KERBECK? If so, we want to hear about it. Send your comments, feedback, reviews, or stories to:
Click on a scam below to jump directly to that scam
1.) The Financing Fell Through Scam (Spot Delivery Scam)
2.) The Straw Purchase Scam
3.) The “Forget To Pay Off Your Trade In” Scam (New For 2006)
4.) The “Lie To The Customer About Their Credit Score” Scam
5.) The “Your Online Lender Bounces Checks” Scam
6.) The “Forced Warranty” Scam
7.) The “Dealer Prep” Scam (Excessive Fee)
8.) “We’ll Payoff Your Loan No Matter How Much You Still Owe!!!”
9.) The Previously Wrecked Used Car, Sold “As Is” Scam
10.) The Fake Vehicle Escrow Service Scam
Source: CarBuyingTips.com
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About the Author:
Robert Mcleary writes articles about Cheap Car Insurance and Find The Best Offers Online. Other information and articles published by the writer on the topic of Find The Cover For You can be obtained on the web.
Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/insurance-articles/finding-the-best-car-insurance-offers-online-252337.html
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